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Posted by ken on Wednesday, 27 April 2011, at 9:07 p.m., in response to stocks, posted by Art Walton on Tuesday, 26 April 2011, at 2:33 p.m.
Here's what I do, with old stocks, for antique or antique type rifles, for what it's worth.
First I work a dry stock over with a mix of walnut, olive oil, and a dash of mineral oil.
I'd work it over a couple or three days a week, for a couple of weeks. Not really soaking it down, but just sparingly rubbing it in with your fingers.
I'd do the barrel channel first with something more waxy, ("sno-seal" works) and then it would be best to put the barrel and action in the stock, so the forend doesn't warp.
Then I'll take the same mix above, and add some bee's wax to it, just enough to make it slightly pasty. Again, rub it in sparingly about every other day for a few weeks. Might want to add a bit of wood stain to it at this point.
After that you might want to go to Tung oil. Linseed oil isn't that great, and it really does not form much of a water barrier, if any. Tung is a little better. I usually just stick with the olive/walnut/mineral mix.
That will give you a start on a nice oil finish that will really look "right". However, I have found that it takes about six months or more to really get a good oil finish on a stock, working it over about once a week, on average. Probably took a year to get the stock on my Brown Bess to really "cure". It's not an instant gratification situation...but is well worth it in the long run.
On my Jeager, after six months or so I cheated a bit, and added a TINY amount of "Tru-Oil" to the mix above, let that cure, then steel wooled it. As I hunt hard with the Jeager (walnut stock) I did want a little more weather proofing...although the Brown Bess is "cured" and water proof now, without any kind of synthetics on it. But Bessie mostly just goes Turkey hunting these days.
Yes I know that Tru-Oil is supposed to be linseed based, but I'm sure there's something "weird" in it...it's not just linseed oil.
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