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Re: Frozen hammer/tumbler

Posted by Pete Nelson on Monday, 24 January 2011, at 12:29 p.m., in response to Frozen hammer/tumbler, posted by Cary Meyers on Monday, 24 January 2011, at 7:55 a.m.

Good morning Cary,

Well, starting off by applying the WD40 and/or Liquid Wrench is pretty much my approach also. In fact, I have found that the orange "PB BLASTER" (also in an aerosol can) seems to work even better as a rust/corrosion-dissolver and is normally available in most hardware stores.

But I would strongly recommend NOT applying any force INSIDE the tapped hole in the rectangular shank of the Tumbler because you will almost certainly cause thread damage. I have done this Hammer-removal/re-installation operation enough times that I finally made up a small wooden jig using a 2-1/2" x 3" x 3/4" thick piece of relatively hard wood (I had a chunk of 1 x 3 red oak scrap which worked just fine) and bored a recess (spotface) 1.50" diameter x 7/16" deep in one of the 2-1/2" x 3" faces on a 45-degree line about 1.5" in from one corner. Then on the centerline of the 1.50" diameter spotface I continued boring through to the opposite face with a 0.50" diameter hole (which would clear the 0.44" diameter of the Hammer Screw. The wooden jig served as a support surface for the Lockplate (with Hammer and Tumbler still attached) when I began tapping (actually POUNDING) the square end face of the Tumbler to attempt to drive it out of the recess in the Hammer. You need to have the Lock Assembly COMPLETELY disassembled with only the Lockplate, Hammer, and embedded Tumbler still remaining.

I set the wooden jig - - spotfaced surface up - - on a good sturdy surface (workbench) with the stamped face of the Lockplate facing upward and the front (sculptured) face of the Hammer facing upward/Tumbler facing downward and centered in the spotfaced area (so that it will have a slight clearance below to drop down into once it is driven out free of the Hammer). I used a good steel (brass will work, but it tends to get "mashed over" after a few uses) round drift-pin 5/16" (0.312") in diameter (you may need to turn down the diameter of the first 0.25", or so, of length of the drift-pin down slightly so that it fits into and just clears the across-flats width of the square broached hole in the Hammer but still seats solidly on the square shank of the Tumbler without leaning over into the threads) to drive the Tumbler out of the Hammer. Then VERY CAREFULLY BEGIN TO DRIVE THE TUMBLER OUT OF THE HAMMER USING A SQUARE-BOTTOMED HAMMER. Once clear, then the square hole in the Hammer and the shoulders of the square shank of the Tumbler should be cleaned off of any rust or corrosion using fine steel wool and WD-40 or Liquid Wrench before trying to re-assemble the Lock Assembly. Then I use the reverse side of the Jig (with the 0.50" diameter hole facing up) to set the inside face of the Tumbler on (with the square threaded shank facing upward) and then place the Lockplate over it, inside face facing downward, then install the Hammer (curved surface facing upward) over the shank of the Tumbler - - MAKING SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE HAMMER AND THE TUMBLER CORRECTLY ORIENTED RELATIVE TO EACH OTHER - - and then, using a sturdy block of hardwood (I use another chunk of red oak), I pound the Hammer back onto the square shank of the Tumbler until it seats and leaves a slight clearance between the inside face of the Hammer and the stamped face of the Lockplate. Then install and tighten the Hammer Screw until snug.

NOTE: I eventually cut a thin (0.060") piece of brass sheet and attached it securely with fours small screws to the face of the wooden jig which has the 0.50" diameter clearance hole for the Hammer Screw (and drilled a mating 0.50" diameter hole through the brass plate also) so that the Tumbler would have some support when pounding the Hammer back on and wouldn't be driven down into the wood.

Complicated? Perhaps, but it certainly made the disassembly/re-assembly operations go a lot smoother and minimized the possibility of damage (both structural and cosmetic) to the Hammer, Tumbler, Lockplate, and Lock Screw - - all of which are relatively expensive and, as you wil undoubtedly discover, becoming increasingly difficult to find in even half-decent condition!

I hope that this will be of some help.

PETE


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